“Tu es venue un mois trop tôt,” (You came one month too early) my mum said when I told her about my plan to take the train from Saint-Avold to Paris. Something I do often when I come back home.
“Pourquoi ?” I asked.
“La ligne TGV Est sera mise en service en juin,” (The Eastern Fast Train Line will be in service in June).
I had totally forgotten. And, it is true that had I known, I might have considered coming later. Not that I actually minded the three-and-a-half hour train ride to Paris from my parents’ since with my Ipod — oh yes, P. made me such a dreamy music selection, as he knows so well to do — my notebook and multiple food magazines, time flew by. But if I could have brought my travel down to one and a half hours, why not after all. Besides, I love traveling on le TGV* , which is a treat I rarely have.
*For those of you who do not know, TGV stands for Train à Grande Vitesse (Fast train)
So you will have to excuse me but I have to tell you about Paris, because after all, it is one my favorite cities. My dad still does not understand why. He is not interested in Paris whatsoever. Me? Oh yes, I am!
I arrived in the French capital as planned, ready for three days of exploring and walking its historic narrow streets. How many people have already walked on the same pavement, I always wonder? Armed with a good pair of walking shoes — and a credit card, of course — on my list were friends to visit, new people to meet and some shopping to do. I had the hope to find a wealth of food delicacies and kitchen utensils to bring back with me. This time, I would not care about luggage weight restrictions or what type of food to bring back. This time, I would take risks with customs and see what happens — and buy an extra piece of luggage if need be. And what a time I had, despite the rain! I was able to keep everything I had purchased, still not believing that the dog I am used to seeing sniffing around by the airport luggage belt missed to smell what I had in my bags. I guess my wrapping technique worked.
Every time I visit Paris, I am lucky to stay with M. and A., two long time friends who live right on Boulevard Saint Germain near Saint Michel, in the 6th arrondissement. Although I have also stayed in hotels before — and even liked them — I do not think that there is a better way to enjoy a short stay in Paris than spend time in a real lived-in place. M. and A. have been living there for quite a few years now. He lives on the second floor. She is on the 4th. I keep telling both of them that they need to find a way to put their hand on the 3d floor as well and we keep joking about it, wondering what to do to make this happen.
It is perhaps the third or fourth time that I stay at M.’s apartment, feeling homey and more comfortable each time, developing habits even. There, I can enjoy lazy breakfasts taken at the small wooden table nested by the large tall window, typical of Parisian apartments. There, I am able to wake up slowly to a never stopping, lively world going by in the busy street down below. While in France, I have noticed that my breakfasts are actually not typically French. Only perhaps for the jam, loaves of bread sliced in large tartines and the butter. What else do I eat au p’tit déj? This time, I mumbled on du fromage de chèvre frais (fresh goat cheese), des fraises Gariguette (strawberries) and quinoa cereal. And, if I could have eaten more, I would have.
You will have to agree with me, I know. Spending only three days in Paris is too short when there is so much to see and do in this gigantic city. But with experience with these stolen trips here and there, I have learned to manage to accomplish plenty. And this time, it all started with a stroll in the neighborhood on the first afternoon followed by tea taken at Rose Bakery, in the 9th arrondissement where I met Fred. The first highlight of my Parisian trip.
Of course, I had heard a lot about this English-inspired bakery — and I even own their cookbook — and like many of you I am sure, I was curious to see and experience the place. And I was not disappointed.
When Fred and I arrived a little after 5 pm, not much food was left. This, however, did not stop us. We ordered tea and coffee, and I decided to nibble on granola and plain yogurt. “C’est tout ce qui vous reste ?” (Is it all that is left?) I asked the English-speaking man behind the counter. “Ben oui, presque” (Yes, almost). Not very original, you might think, but oh boy for me, it was heaven. And do you know why? Because this is exactly the type of healthy snack I might have had at home, at this time of the day.
I liked Rose Bakery. Walking along the steeper rue des Martyrs in the 9th arrondissement, had I not known the bakery was there, I might actually have missed it despite the few metallic chairs and tables found in front. We were welcomed by a casual friendly staff, even if it took some time before anyone noticed us. In fact, both Fred and I were unsure of their system. Sit at the table and wait for someone to help us out? Walk to the counter to order food?
Rose Bakery is small and simple in décor, with muted colors on the walls and floor. True, we were not able to taste much of their food — and so I will need to go back, won’t I? — but seeing a takeout counter full of fresh produce by the wall on the left as we entered made me feel that it was just like this: fresh organic ingredients used in a food that would be similar to my lunches taken at home. I imagined savory tarts with vegetable, fresh salads — oh yes, I tried their carrot salad — homemade cookies, scones and teacakes of all sorts. After spending a delightful chatty time spent with Fred, I knew that I would be back, but next time, for lunch.
I went on to explore Paris and its numerous and interesting shops, making a few stops in papeteries and kitchen stores where I loaded on sheets of colorful paper and kitchen gadgets of all sorts. I bought clothes and shoes too — oh yes, maybe you do not care about shoes and clothes, do you? But what would Paris be if a girl could not indulge in some girlie shopping there too?
The next day, I had lunch with David. Another highlight of my trip. We met at Cuisine de Bar, a friendly small restaurant on rue du Cherche Midi, located next to the boulangerie Poilâne. I had been there a few times before. Cuisine de Bar serves savory tartines (open faced sandwiches) of all sorts, with numerous toppings like cheese, meat, sardines or vegetables. A lovely simple combination could be tomato with basil. I chose mine with Saint Marcellin. Would you be surprised if I told you that David and I were so engrossed in our conversation that we could have stayed there for hours. But Paris was calling us and we left to take a walk to La Grande Épicerie du Bon Marché nearby, where I had already stopped the day before. He wanted to refill on his favorite beurre demi-sel (What is the name of this butter again?) and I was looking for more delicacies to bring home. I tried to find violet essence for a friendly reader, but to no avail. Instead, I left with chocolate curuçao tagliatelles. At that point, I had totally forgotten about customs people when I would return to the US. Weight restrictions? Easy! I would buy an extra bag. I am a girl with many resources.
And I walked and walked, from one store to another. By the evening, I was loaded with more bags of all sizes, not resisting to buy a fresh bunch of pink and white small radishes I wanted to snack on later. With a little Fleur de sel, or the traditional butter and bread, perhaps. Why can I not find these in the US?
That evening, I was meeting Pascale at Ze Kitchen Galerie for dinner. I had not heard before about this restaurant tucked at the end of rue des Grands-Augustins in the 6th — where was I during all this time? — but what a fantastic address to remember, and I am so thankful that Pascale suggested it.
We almost missed the place when we walked by it. Where was it, we told each other. “Vous n’êtes pas les premières,” (you are not the first ones) the man who greeted us told us when we finally managed to find number 4. We could not help but smile. The restaurant next door was surely happy about this.
“C’est marrant, cela ne fait pas très parisien, tu ne trouves pas ?“, Pascale told me after we had been sitting at our table for a few minutes (funny, it does not look very Parisian, don’t you think?). I looked around me and tried to see what she meant. And she was right. It had to do with the décor, modern as it turned out, and the fact that a taste of the food made you travel far away. Unlike typical smaller Parisian bistro-type places, Ze Kitchen Galerie unveils tall walls covered with colorful contemporary paintings by Daniel Humair or Tony Soulié, to name a few. The ceilings are unusually high too in this spacious restaurant. After walking in, you are first greeted at a counter that you might confuse for a hotel reception. Coats are checked in a coat room before a professional friendly staff member escorts you to your table. The food? Exotic and surprising. Delightfully presented too.
“C’est surprenant. Qu’est-ce que c’est ?” we both exclaimed after the first bite of our respective appetizers. I had chosen raw tuna, Pascale raw mackerel. Everything seemed to awaken a new sense, making us travel to foreign countries. By looking at the menu, you would discern the Asian trend right away. Chef William Ledeuil, protégé of Guy Savoy — uses lemongrass, wasabi, yuzu, goyave, galangal, ginger, tarama, coriander, curcuma, lime oil, mangos and passion fruit like I have not seen anyone else do before. He creates foamy émulsions (espumas) of all sorts, sweet or savory, and cooks young lamb, raw fish, octopus, sea bass, vegetables or fresh pasta with a talent that perspires in every dish. Fusion and contemporary for sure. But mostly a food extremely fresh and seasonal. I can still taste the white chocolate passion fruit mousse I had, served with lemongrass, strawberries, and litchee sorbet. What a treat!
In fact, I need to make a confession. I liked this restaurant so much — and had such a nice time with Pascale there — that I came back the next evening. Our waiter smiled at me when he saw me again, the second day. “On vous change de table tout de même,” he even added (let’s change your table, at least). I know, I know! You will think that there are so many dining options in Paris that this was pure madness. De la folie! But wait! I had an excellent reason. I wanted to share this experience once more, making sure it would be as good the second time. And what not but to do this with one of my best friends who had come all the way from Utrecht to spend the day with me. When we left, I promised her that I was going to try to make the delicious dessert that both of us tasted again and loved (a work in progress, but you can see a sample in pictures below) . And oh yes, let me say it once more. The second day was just as good, if not better.
Needless to say that I left Paris happy, despite my airport misadventure. I already look forward to my next trip — I cannot wait to try this new TGV line — returning to Ze Kitchen Galerie, I know already. My sweet P. has to eat there! I know that he will also love it.
(bakery, and lunch and tea time)
46, rue des Martyrs
9th arrondissement
(restaurant)
8, rue Cherche-Midi
6th arrondissement
(restaurant)
4, rue des Grands-Augustins
6th arrondissement
(fine produce, épicerie fine)
38, rue de Sèvres
7th arrondissement
(fine produce, épicerie fine)
40, blvd Haussmann
9th arrondissement
(teas)
13, rue des Grands-Augustins
6th arrondissement
(Kitchen supplies, dinnerware, Art de la table)
95, rue de Rennes
6th arrondissement
(Kitchen supplies, dinnerware, Art de la table)
85, rue de Rennes
6th arrondissement
From the mirror~ i see so petite and cute lady~ it’s bea ^^
i’ve heard about the French’s food ~ beautiful~ lovely~ colorful~
now~ i believe it’s true~ so yummy~
Hi be….
Your description and photo’s of Paris and all it has to offer,makes my desire to re- visit France ,and to see and taste Paris for the first time amazing.
I am a chef in Toronto Canada and very passionate about food. I also post my photo’s on Flickr and I do all the cooking,food styling and the photography.Please feel free to check out my photo stream.My name is lezlieslenze,and would enjoy any comments you have to share with me.
Leslie
Je ne suis pas encore partie que je pense aussi deja aux bagages du retour, et j’espere tomber encore une fois sur le douanier dont le cousin habite dans ma rue…on ne parle toujours que de ca, et oublions les bagages 😉
Grace a une adorable attention de Jo (Auntie Jo), j’ai le dernier Elle a Table aux US. Sympathique coincidence, j’y ai decouvert Rose Bakery . Pourvu que j’aie le temps d’aller y faire un tour, tu m’en donnes envie!!
I remember the chocolate pasta at La Grande Epicerie and the look B. gave me…it did not make it back here with me but so many other things did like jams and syrups and honeys….Lucky you for meeting all these fantastic people. Your pictures are so good…the brightness is breathtaking.
La Vaissellerie, I remember wanting everything in there!
I finally got around to making the shrimp chips. I don’t know what was more fun, watching them bloom or eating them. Thank you!
I eat there this evening and it is always a pleasure of discovering its new carte. It is what pushes to me has to return, this mixture, this voyage which it causes….
quelle vision “so romantic ” de Paris ou bien c’est le Paris que l’on a le temps de voir en touriste sans avoir à y travailler .
Je connaissais le livre du chef de Ze kitchen galerie , mais pas encore son resto en vrai .
merci pour les photos ..bien tentantes .
Oh, Bea, I want to go back to Paris NOW. It’s exactly a year from my last (& first) trip to that fantastic city, and now you’ve evoked all those wonderful memories.. Stunning photos, like always.
Le nom du beurre que tu cherches, ne serait-ce pas le beurre Bordier, le must en matière de beurre !
Ze Kitchen Galerie est un lieu fantastique, j’ai eu la chance d’y dévorer au mois de mars un menu dégustation en soirée … Fabuleux ….
Et Rose Bakery est un lieu où j’adore bruncher …
I love the goodies that you got, and the trip sounded like a lot of fun. Thanks for sharing!
I love to drink coffee.Gourmet coffee
at http://www.coffeebreakusa.com
Magnificent pictures, as usual! I loved that post and it’s atmosphere very much…
So nice to see the city where I work every days through your eyes Bea, I love it, you make me want to get out of the office and go wandering the streets straight away.
je craque a la vue de ces photos sublimes! bravo!
bienvenue Bea…
tu es très douée et très charmante. ça me fairait vraiment plasir de te connaitre…
à travers tes photos je decouvre et re-decouvre Paris, même si j’y habit et je la vois à chaque moment.
mille merci
Thanks for sharing the visit to my favorite city. Can you not find those radishes in the US at a farmers market? They are usually called French Breakfast radishes, I think (I don’t know why — do you eat them for breakfast?)
I like those cute little jars of jam…I have a weakness for small containers. These pictures are wonderful Bea! You have a gift that captures the elan of life.
I’m falling in love with your post and photossssssss!!!
A great kiss from turin, dear bea!
;-*****
et bien, c’est juste délicieux de te lire et “regarder”….juste trop beau, un pure moment d’évasion ! Merci pour ces jolis instants
Bonne après midi
Claude
Je fonds Béa, les photos sont trop belles. Cette année, c’est la première fois depuis 9 ans que je ne serai pas à Paris. Snif.
Such a charming story and perfect photographs. I love sitting here in a little ray of sunshine at my computer with coffee and thinking about pastries (or having one) and reading your posts. You inspire me to live more beautifully and to see everyday objects with a keener eye.
I’ve been to a lot of places, but never Paris. Looking at your pictures and reading your snippet of text, I’m more confused than ever about why I haven’t. Thank you for teasing.
Un billet passionnant, des photos merveilleuses, des rencontres au sommet, la découverte de lieux gourmands, que rêver de mieux ? Bon séjour et à bientôt !
Beautiful pix as always Bea
Oh what a lovely trip..it all seems to have flowed together so beautifully..like a dream.
I got to Rose Bakery for lunch last trip with my adorable ancient 2nd cousin, who lives in Pigalle. She had never even seen it before. We both had such fun and loved every bite.
Thank you BEA!!!
I’m even more convinced that I need to travel to Paris! The pictures made me feel like I was right there with you. 🙂
I definitely need to go back to Rose bakery since I left the place with so many fantasy about their lunch… but I’ve recently discovered “Bread and Roses” an awsome boulangerie-épicerie near Le Luxembourg that you absolutely need to test. I assume that the choice will be “Cornelien” next time you come !! And I’ll be pleased to share more than a Latte with you of course 🙂
Cheers,
Fred
De magnifiques photos, comme les “vieux” films français, “à bicyclette”, comme la réalité parisienne avec le café et l’ordinateur.
J’aimerais avoir cette vision de Paris et de la France en général, qui transparaît à travers tes photos, beau, bon, fin chic, romantique, fleuri…
If it’s an option, I’d always take the TGV, delightful as ice cream on a hot day.
Thanks for such a great list of links to all the places. Some I know, others I’ll save for the next trip we make to Paris. I don’t think I could ever tire of Paris. No three days is not enough but every little bit is grand! So glad you had a wonderful trip.
NOus voici de retour de Ze Kitchen Galerie ou W. Ledeuil nous a encore fait découvrir ses saveurs. Un menu découverte et apres 7 assiettes le mot final restera wouahhhh….Je ne me lasse jamais de me rendre a cette table la carte change toutes les 5 semaines…
Merci pour ce Bea. je vais à Paris en été et maintenant je sais où visiter. Je dois maintenant pratiquer mon français.
It’s all so amazing. I love how your photographs make me feel almost there….sigh, almost. 🙂
these photos are so incredibly beautiful … i need to plan a trip! 🙂
I will be in London in the fall, and am so inspired to go to Paris for a day. Thanks for including addresses in case I do! I just want to eat my way through the city. Mmmm! 🙂
C’est encore moi..je viens de voir ton clafoutis sur flickr…on est vraiment inratables toutes les deux a etre sur la meme longueur d’ondes…glace verrines clafoutis…c’est dingue! forcement chez moi la photo c’est pas …je vais finir par t’envoyer un mail avant de publier un billet!!
D’ou en Lorraine viens-tu? Ma filleule habite a Tours et va au lycee Descartes (comme mon grand-pere).
Oh! I feel like I have been walking around Paris with you! Beautiful, Béa!
An incredible post. Merci, merci, a thousand times merci Bea. I am transported.
the 6th is such a neglected district and one of my favourite ones in paris, by miles! i will certainly seek out zekitchen garden next time, sounds like my kind of place. pascale also took me to a very un-french place in paris, she’s got a nose for those 😉
Moi aussi quand je suis à Paris, je ressens par moment la présence des milliers de personnes qui sont passées là avant, surtout dans la cour carrée du Louvre.
C’est une chance d’avoir un pied à terre dans le 6ème (que de bons cinémas dans ce quartier !).
Je ne connaissais pas le restaurant, il m’a l’air bien tentant… je termine toujours vos billets avec de nouvelles choses à découvrir.
Vôtre blog est tellement beau. C’est la première fois que je fais un commentaire et ce pour vous dire que vous étiez just around the corner from me et je me demande si vous êtes allée faire un tour chez G. Detou? vous auriez probablement pu prendre des photos qui rendraient justice à leur collection fabuleuse de produits. Et puis vous n’en parlez pas, mais êtes-vous passée chez Gérard Mulot où Patrick Roger où chez nôtre boyfriend gastronomique à toutes PH?
oh, bea – you have me longing for paris more than ever with this post! beautifully done. your photos are breathtaking, your descriptions enticing! i am so glad you enjoyed yourself so! 🙂
Thank you thank you. Will respond shortly, promise!
Those radishes (which I’m assuming are the French Breakfast variety) shouldn’t be impossible to track down in the US. One of the vendors at my local farmer’s market (in Arlington VA) has been selling them for the past couple months. I do wish the regular grocery store carried things like that, though. But everything’s better at the farmer’s market anyway.
Also, those shoes are adorable! Where can I get a pair?
Photos magnifiques! Ah, Paris, Paris, ce n’est jamais fini 🙂
I love the pictures you paint with your words! Takes me back to when I was there with my would-be husband 🙂 Wish I was there again now! Your photos are transporting me!
I don’t care much for Paris… but after reading your post, I am really thinking about giving it another try soon.
Béa, j’adore ton site, tes photos surtout, mais c’est dommage que la poésie de tes petits déjeuners parisiens soient accompagnés du beurre Président. (pour ce beurre de très mauvaise qualité, et pour ce nom de très mauvais goût).
Bien à toi,
Thank you Yoyo!
Leslie, I hope you can go to Paris again soon then. Your pictures are lovely!
Vanessa, ah oui, tu en as bien de la chance de connaitre un douanier! 😉 Profites-en bien!
Helen, so happy you liked them. I cannot wait to try these tagliatelles
Stephane, oh I so wish I could have had the tasting menu as you did. I am sure it must have been a delight, in view of my memory of the food!
Lili, il y a plein de poésie à Paris, alors c’est facile, surtout quand on est que de passage!
Pille, I am sure you will find a way. You are good at that!
Fabienne, oui tu as sans doute raison. Le nom me dit quelque chose maintenant. Merci.
Kat, thank you!
Rosa, thanks
Gracianne, ah oui, tu DOIS en profiter. C’est une chance que d’y être.
Leonine, merci.
Daniela, merci bien. A chaque fois que je retourne à paris, c’est toujours plein de découvertes. Tu as de la chance!
Christine, oh yes, I remember it is one of your fav places!
Veron, yes you know it is funny. I fell for them for the same reason, because they were cute.
Gourmet, thank you!
Claude-Olivier, contente de t’avoir procuré ce moment!
Mary, ah ma pauvre. Je suis sûre que la prochaine fois n’en sera alors que meilleure.
Catherine, this is such a sweet comment. Thanks so much. I am really pleased to hear I can provide this moment for you! Many thanks.
Christina, oh yes you HAVE to go!
Tit, merci.
Jeff, thanks!
Carol, I totally have to go back to Rose Bakery! WHat did you eat?
Jes, glad to hear! Merci.
Fred, definitely on my list of places to visit next time! Thank you! It was great to see you.
Sha, ah oui, il y a tout cela en France, même si tout n’est pas toujours rose. Comme partout d’ailleurs. C’est le cours de la vie.
Tanna, yes I cannot wait to try this TGV line. Everyone in my family is excited. Not sure though they will go to Paris more though 😉 They like their campagne!
Audrey, oh I am very glad you will get there. ENjoy and let me know of places you visit!
Peabody, thank you!
Nicole, thanks. You have to indeed!
Madeleine, this sounds wonderful, as a trip!
Helen, ah ah oui, tu as bien raison. Mon village, c’est Albestroff. J’ai étudié à Metz ensuite à 70 kms de là.
Ivonne, thanks my dear.
Artemis, thank you!
Johanna, oh yes, Pascale must have a sense for this. What a lovely time we had. DO you remember the name of the place where you went?
Adeline, merci beaucoup. Oui tout à fait d’accord, beaucoup de chance d’avoir un pied à terre dans le 6 ème.
Hilda, j’avais été dans ces pâtisseries la dernière. PH, il y avait une telle queue devant la boutique que cela m’a franchement découragée. Mais une prochaine fois sans doute. Detou, je n’ai pas vu mais je retiens. Merci!
Chanelle, thank you very much!
Caroline, thanks for the tip. I will definitely check and look for them at my market next time! As to the shoes ahah, you will have to go to France then. A small designer I found in Metz. SO if you go let me know!
Thérèse, merci. Non jamais fini, toujours du nouveau!
Joey, thank you.
AMbar, I hope you will enjoy the place.
IM, ahahah, le beurre, je ne l’avais pas acheté, il était chez mes amis!
Bravo Béa! Ton blog est un véritable plaisir pour les yeux.
Tes photos me font crever d’envie d’aller à Paris….
Mmm, les chaussures tu les as acheté à Paris, par hasard????? =D
Merci et fais-nous encore rêver…
Chère Béa, merci de faire visiter ma ville sous ton angle de vue. Quel régal de bon matin. Ze kitchen gallery, pour le moment je n’ai que livre “les couleurs du goût”, il faudrait juste que je traverse la Seine pour y aller manger. Ce qui arrivera, c’est sûr !
Béa: That butter is from M. Bordier, in Brittany (where else?) I’d send you a pad, but I don’t think it would make it. You’ll just have to come back : )
Merci beaucoup pour ce billet qui me ramène vers cette superbe soirée en ta compagnie. A très bientôt.
Hi Bea!
Your pictures are wonderful, as always. I am getting married next May and I remember when I saw your New Zealand pictures, I wanted to honeymoon there, but my fiance and I have decided to go to France (Paris for sure) since the both of us have not yet been there together. I can’t wait to go 🙂 I’ve already started a list of restaurants that I have to visit!
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j’adorerais aller à ce retaurant, je ne le connaissais pas quand j’habitais Paris.
J’ai acheté récememnt le livre de W. Ledeuil, les couleurs du goût et j’ai déjà fait trois de ses recettes qui sont divines, je te mets les liens
http://vanessacuisine.canalblog.com/archives/2007/03/30/4459235.html
http://vanessacuisine.canalblog.com/archives/2007/04/06/4540915.html
La troisième n’est pas encore publiée, c’est un farci de thon cru et mariné – crabe, servi façon sandwich, des poémes à chaque fois !
J’y suis allée pour mon anniversaire, un grand souvenir (je regrette encore de n’avoir pas choisi le menu dégustation!) même si je dois confesser que j’ai trouvé que l’esthétique des plats était peut-être plus réussi que le plaisir gustatif au final. Shame on me pour ce bémol!
tes photos sont vraiment magnifiques , on se croit vraiment avec toi pendant cette balade . merci pour les infos et les liens pour les cartes de visite ! et pour les si belles recettes que tu publies !
bea, i wish i was still living in paris and was your friend that you come to visit!
oh we love all the same stores, la vaissailrie, mariage freres, galeries lafayette gourmet, bon marche…..le 6em! Oh this post is really really making me nostalgic. I will have to be back soon.
Ze Kitchen Galerie has always been on my Paris list- I’ll be sure to hit it next time! I would also highly recommend the Carla New Year jam if you can get it- raspberries with champagne, quite delicious and one of my favorite things I lugged back with me in January.
i love paris city. i like sweet food.these snapes are so delicious.
i love the way tyou write.. you are owesome..and i also love Paris.. Oh lala.. beautiful.. lucky you!!
bye .. take care ..
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visited Ze Kitchen Galerie having somehow found it on the net. then found your blog on it. that sold it to me and i would say i was not disappointed. it was the most fantastic meal. so unusual. it now has a michelin star. the lunch menu is incredible value at €39 for 3 courses inc glass of wine (sept 08). we met the chef and asked his recommedations for other places to eat. they were fab too but Ze Kitchen was really fab.
Nicer word pictures that you used. I bet that you can’t wait to go back.
So glad to hear that the Rose Bakery lived up to expectations. Such a great cookbook, and now it is confirmed as such a great place.